Day 99 – Thursday/Friday 18-19 September

Bishop’s Stortford – Liverpool Street – Euston – Manchester – Edinburgh – Rosyth – North Queensferry – Edinburgh – Kings Cross – Liverpool Street – Bishops Stortford

Having missed out a single stop , Westhoughton, in May I have ridden the entire UK national rail network except for one station. I have a View from the Forth ticket; an annual charity event that allows the public to ascend in an industrial hoist to viewing platforms on top of the Forth Bridge. So let’s go via Westhoughton and complete my set.

Train 1 – Bishop’s Stortford – Liverpool Street

Most of my trips start by heading north, but today it’s south, via London. This isn’t really a train trip in my normal sense, but a journey to a specific event. If I’d been going direct to Edinburgh I might well have travelled via Ely and Peterborough, but Westhoughton makes the WCML the sensible route.

That’s why I find myself on a Greater Anglia Stadler FLIRT. These are nice trains, but even these have seats that are far less comfortable than those of a generation or two ago.

I’m surprised at how empty it is. It isn’t a Monday or a Friday so you’d expect a full commuter flow. But this has come from Stansted and has few obvious plane passengers; it’s not the fastest train around this time; and it’s slightly too late for many commuters.

It left on time and arrived on time. Nothing else to add.

Underground 1 – Liverpool Street – Euston Square

I could have changed at Tottenham Hale onto the Victoria Line but I prefer to use Liverpool Street if I have time. In the Up direction I can stay in my seat all the way into London and the subsurface journey is less frenetic, and air-conditioned. When heading back home Liverpool Street is a far nicer place to wait than Tottenham Hale.

So, I join a Metropolitan Line S8 stock train bound for Watford. It had only come from Aldgate so there were plenty of seats available. I’d probably have stood if I’d opted for the Victoria Line.

Train 2 – Euston – Manchester Piccadilly

My train was already boarding when I arrived at Euston, despite me being quite early. It was running from Platform 16. The last train I boarded on that platform was Inspiration, the Network Rail Rail200 exhibition. My train today did not usually go from 16. Doesn’t the sleeper use it normally? The sleeper today was adjacent, in 15.

There’s no barrier here but there was somebody checking tickets onto the platform. He was taking some time as he had to explain something to a group. I waited patiently. A man came barrelling down the ramp, straight past the queue, flashing his phone at the employee as he did so. ‘Oi!, I shouted, being put out in a very English way.

I boarded my coach. It was empty, except for that man, who’d walked in the door at the other end. As we met in the middle I said “there was a queue back there, you know”?

He paused for a while, then explained. He’d thought the knot of people at the foot of the ramp were a single group who were waiting for something. He was very apologetic, and he now felt bad. Well, I felt even worse. He was obviously a very nice chap, and now I’d ruined both our days.

I was making this trip on Advance First Single tickets and had been allocated a seat on a table for four on the aisle with my back to travel. The other three were not reserved so I moved to the facing window, settled down and awaited breakfast. The first class interior of these Pendolinos is quite nice. I saw that wireless charging is available via circular areas on the table. I suppose you may not wish to get a charger or USB lead out, but wireless really is a bit slow. Still, nice to have.

Breakfast didn’t disappoint.

Of course it wasn’t a patch on the breakfasts on BR InterCity, but I enjoyed it, together with two cups of tea and some water.

My carriage was no more than a third full, maybe less.

The train didn’t stop often, just Nuneaton, Stoke-on-Trent and the obligatory Stockport, so we were soon passing Longsight and arriving at Piccadilly, a few minutes late. RTT suggests that the time was all lost in the last few miles, through and from Stockport.

The Stockport area must be, by far, the busiest part of the railway signalled under absolute block regulations. Are there plans to upgrade the signalling? it must be very expensive running several boxes within a mile or two of each other, when York can handle just about all of the ECML as well as Leeds.

Metrolink 1 – Piccadilly to Victoria

Normally when wishing to get between the Manchester stations, I look at RTT and discover that I’ve just missed the hourly Cross-Country that links the two via the Ordsall Chord. But the Trans-Pennine Upgrade Project has meant the temporary closure of Huddersfield and a timetable rejig. Now the chord sits idle. That shows how strategically essential it is. What a waste of money.

So it’s down to the tram platforms. I had to wait nearly 10 minutes for a Bury service for Victoria but I had spare time. I noticed once again how very noisy the trams are. Is it deliberate, for safety? They’re also very, very slow in the city centre, especially along Aytoun Street.

My opinion of Victoria has changed since the start of my May trip. I now like it. Interesting architecture sensitively restored, and not a bad station to use. I had time to spare but went to my platform anyway. It was on one of the through lines so necessitated using the slightly confusing one-way footbridges.

Train 3 – Manchester Victoria to Wigan Wallgate

My next service had come from Stalybridge. That answered the question I had in mind from May, when the train I caught to Stalybridge started from Victoria. I didn’t think that was normal but I didn’t investigate any further. I was now on a Northern class 769. These were built for Thameslink and are (were?) capable of running on the 25kV AC national standard overhead power supply or the 750V DC third-rail found south of the Thames. They have had diesel engines fitted so can run both under wires and away from them, making them useful units in the north with its fragmented electrification.

I’d thought that they’d been problematic and were being withdrawn, but I may have got that wrong. They are comfortable enough for the routes they serve, and nicer than many newer trains. I felt a twinge of nostalgia as their interior is similar to other trains of the era, including the class 317 that served my local line for many years.

We set off via Salford Central to Salford Crescent. They’re building a new platform on what was the up fast (through) line. It looked close to completion but lacked a proper surface away from the platform edge. They always seem to do that bit late in the proceedings.

I was familiar with the line as far as Bolton, but I don’t remember Farnworth, possibly because I usually speed through it. There are model trains on the wall. I like them, but I’m surprised nobody has stolen or wrecked them.

After Bolton we continued towards the WCML at Euxton – the line that I received an electric shock from a power socket on two years ago – but we diverged to the left at Lostock Junction. Soon we stopped for my target – Westhoughton. I could have made more of my very last station, but I didn’t. However I was pleased to see a huge station garden, banked up away from the platform, with dozens of shrubs. In fact I saw the same at another nearby station, perhaps Hindley or Ince. People who care for these gardens, and some stations, are wonderful.

Not long after Westhoughton (West’-horton) is Crows Nest Junction, where we met the line from Salford Crescent via Swinton, then a short run into Wallgate.

Train 4 – Wigan North Western – Edinburgh Waverley

It’s a short walk from Wallgate to North Western but I noticed something: a nice looking traditional pub. I could stand on a windy platform for half an hour, or I could sit in a pub. The pub, the Swan and Railway, proved to be the correct choice. I had a local beer I’ve never heard of and it was delicious. Very well kept indeed. I then, for reasons of nostalgia, has a pint of Bass. It was again, fantastic.

So, onto the station, the platform, and another seat in Avanti first class. This train was slightly busier than the earlier one and again I was on an aisle, opposite a woman. I slid to the window. I was soon issued with my Ploughman’s Grazing Plate, which again I enjoyed, together with a can of beer. I can’t remember what it was but it was decent.

It’s always a pleasure riding through the edge of the Lake District then up through Scotland, past Preston, Carlisle, Carstairs, Haymarket and Waverley. The east coast route wins out with its coastal scenery but the northern part of the WCML isn’t to be sniffed at.

And so to Waverley. We were on time, despite being six minutes late when I boarded and 14 minutes late earlier, on the approach to New Street. Much was made up by a shortened stop there and we’d made up the rest on the way.

I really don’t like Waverley. It’s confusing and crowded. A pox on it.

Bus 1 – Princes Street to Rosyth

I was staying in Rosyth and needed to get there. Google was clear – leave the station onto Princes Street and go to stop PU. OK, I’ve caught a bus from Princes Street before and it was easy. But not this time. There are many stops in Princes St., all with P prefixes. PU proved to be over 700m from the top of the (horrible) Waverley Steps.

I missed a bus but they run every 15 minutes so it wasn’t long before I was on a yellow Stagecoach single-decker on route X55 towards Dunfermline. The bus was almost full as it was now nearly rush hour. We headed through the rather elegant Edinburgh suburbs, retracing the route I took when I went to South Queensferry last year but then we did something unexpected. We crossed the Forth Road Bridge, that is the older one. It no longer carries general traffic due to deterioration, but it is still open to buses and taxis. Good!

After the bridge we called at a park and ride with large multistorey car park then on to Rosyth. I looked for a bell push, but couldn’t see one. My sassenach mind expects them to be mounted on vertical grab rails or on seat backs. But no sign. I had to ask my neighbour. The vehicle is a typical coach, with lights and air vents above the seats. Between the two was a small, black, unmarked button. It worked, so I got off and on to my hotel.

Friday 19th September

Bus 2 – Rosyth – Inverkeithing

The next morning I was in no hurry, needing to get to the Forth Bridge a few minutes before 1040. It would be a bus and a lengthy walk, or two buses. I opted for the latter as it’s quite hilly. Google Maps was clear and I found the stop easily. I had to change at Inverkeithing. I looked at the timetable. The route was far from frequent. Roughly hourly, and I don’t think it ran at all around midday. But it arrived, more or less on time, a Stagecoach double decker. I asked the driver for the stop I required, but he hadn’t heard of it. But yes, it went to Inverkeithing.

We drove for about a mile then crossed the M90. Eventually we reached the centre of Inverkeithing but I stayed on one stop further, following Maps. I crossed the road and waited. Maps said I should wait up to ten minutes. The timetable at the stop suggested about 17. Not good as I was now a little short of time.

Bus 3 – Inverkeithing – North Queensferry

The time for my bus – another very infrequent service – came and went. I looked at Uber, and they could get me there at an acceptable time, but then I saw the bus heading towards me, about ten minutes late. At the last minute, 50m short of my stop, it turned to the left and disappeared from view. I wasn’t fooled. I’d seen a bus on route JET747 do the same thing and then reappear a few minutes later. It had served the railway station. My bus did the same and duly resurfaced.

I asked the driver for my stop, Battery Road. He’d never heard of it. He was going to Queensferry. OK. that’ll do. It’s odd. Bus drivers in England know the name of every stop. Up here they seem to go by the town only.

We went back to the centre of Inverkeithing then, to my surprise, turned right and back towards the M90. We retraced my outward journey for five stops. Normally Maps gets it right, but this was odd. Once back over the M90 we went to the park and ride then down to the coast and the attractive village of North Queensferry. I looked for a bell push as we approached my stop. I had to walk back to the top of the staircase. In England bellpushes are never more than a row of seats away. I’m quite surprised at Fife’s buses, I thought they’d be better than comparable services in England, but they don’t seem to be in terms of vehicles or frequency.

I had to wait for the driver to turn the bus around at Battery Road Turning Circle before I could alight. That was the name of the terminus even if he had never heard of it. It was a short walk from there to the Network Rail Portakabins.

The View from the Forth

This event happens from time to time. It’s a charity fund-raiser, this time for Barnado’s Scotland. The highlight is a ride in an industrial hoist to a viewing platform on the very top of the bridge, offering superb views and photo opportunities if the weather behaves. You stay up there for about 20 minutes.

I entered the first of a number of cabins where some friendly women wanted to know who I was. I told her, but she couldn’t find my name on her list. I apologised for being slightly late.

‘Are you for 10 o’clock?’

‘No, 10:40’.

She checked her list again while I looked at my ticket. It appeared to say 09:40. The time was now 10:30. Bollocks.

I seem to make a habit of this, from turning up at Ipswich for a meeting being held in Mayfair to booking Eurostar/TGV seats to Switzerland when I was going to be in Prague on those dates, to sitting in first on an Avanti train in May with a standard-class ticket.

‘Oh, man. That’s terrible’.

I could only agree.

But there was a no-show in the last party. Somebody checked and they were still watching ‘The Briggers’, a film/talk about the men who constructed the bridge. I was issued with a hi-vis and hard hat and sent on my way to the cabin for the safety briefing.

Prior to the event we were sent comprehensive notes about how to behave and what to bring. No rucksacks were permitted. Well, I was staying nearby so had a small day backpack that they were happy to let me leave in the admin/reception cabin. We were told that phones would need to be kept in a phone lug (which they’d sell you for £8), glasses could not be loose and any camera should be clipped to clothing or held securely with a wrist strap.

At the briefing we were told to use the chin straps of our hard hats because a gust of wind when you were leaning over the edge might cause the hat to fall, with severe consequences should it hit a train. We were reminded that things must not be dropped as there were thin gaps between the pieces of decking that could allow a phone, or keys, to be lost. We were also reassured of the safety of the whole experience and especially the hoist.

We ascended in our group of 14 visitors and two Balfour Beatty workers. The hoist ride was very smooth, but takes quite some time. It’s a long way up. Once up there we had individual photos taken (included with price) but were otherwise left alone. There are two viewing platforms, each capable of holding many more people than our group, linked by a walkway.

Despite the safety emphasis they weren’t policing hand-held phone or camera use, but people were overtly being sensible when taking pictures. My photos were poor, despite it being clear. I had my camera set to take videos, it seems, and my Lumix was insisting on trying to take several images per shutter release and working out the focus for itself. Don’t seem to be able to turn it off.

Some trains passed while we were up there. You could hear a class 170, but not feel it. An HST, on the other hand, caused noticeably movement of the bridge. Our guide said that freight, and especially steam, shakes the bridge alarmingly.

After our descent we returned our PPE then went into the shop, where tea, coffee, books and other souvenirs were on sale. I was strongly advised to go and watch The Briggers but no more groups were arriving and it looked as if that cabin was closed. So, time to go home.

Train 4 – North Queensferry to Edinburgh Waverley

I severely knackered myself last year, rushing up a steep footpath on the south bank of the Firth of Forth to catch a train from Dalmeny. I was, therefore, careful to make sure I had enough time to get up to North Queensferry. But it was close, I had to stop several times to catch my breath on the way up, and the train was being announced as I walked onto the platform. I needed a ticket and had just reached the payment stage on the GA app when the train arrived. I completed the transaction once aboard and pressed View Ticket. I needed to activate it! Is Scotrail the only TOC where this is still necessary?

This was a Scotrail class 158 from Leven. It was busy, as I know this line to be from experience. The journey started by crossing the bridge, so that was nice. But I was at Waverley after just 19 minutes, much quicker and cheaper than the bus.

Train 5 – Edinburgh Waverley – Kings Cross

I was early for my London train so visited the LNER First Class lounge. I caused some confusion by having a paper ticket and no barcode. Once that was resolved I found a seat and looked for coffee. One machine was displaying a message to the effect that its grounds bin was full; the other had a blank screen.

Somebody was summoned. They emptied the grounds and conducted some fault finding on the other machine. The diagnosis? It wasn’t turned on. So there were soon two machines working. I had a coffee and biscuits, but the sign above the snacks warning you not to take them with you grated. What could be quite a nice experience isn’t really. A shame.

As soon as my train, in the adjacent platform, was ready I got on. LNER had given me a nice single seat facing forward. I looked forward to the journey home. On LNER they first pass through offering water and crisps, which I accepted. Next was cold drinks. I had the red wine which is free-poured from a bottle and was quite good.

For a main I ordered Bavette Steak with peppercorn sauce. It was very hard to cut the steak using the blunt train knife and the crispy hasselback potatoes were perhaps a little too crispy and dry. Still, it was OK.

I declined a second glass of wine but gladly accepted some caramel apple betty crumble with custard. I’d normally go for cheese, but this turned out to be pretty good. On the next visit of the cold drinks trolley I had an LNER Hop on Board beer then some coffee. I was happy enough.

I’ve written about this line before; it looks great in the sunshine but becomes less so the further south you go. But, despite having lost my Scientific American, I enjoyed just staring out of the window, when I wasn’t doom-scrolling or napping.

There’s nothing else to report!

Underground 2 – Kings Cross St. Pancras to Liverpool St.

Train 6 – Liverpool Street to Bishop’s Stortford